My favorite neighborhood in Portland is Laurelhurst, which has recently added yet another pizza shop to its already bustling scene. I didn’t have high expectations, but I was intrigued when I saw online that Grana serves its pizzas uncut, accompanied by scissors. As we know, a pair of scissors guarantees authenticity. Having just had burgers at Butcher’s Burger, we were ready for round two at Grana, which had just opened. We arrived without a reservation but were seated immediately in the airy, wooden restaurant. Since they had reservations for the rest of the night, we were given an hour to enjoy our meal.
The wood-fired oven was ready to serve, though the restaurant was relatively quiet; most guests seemed to be just having drinks. We quickly ordered the Diavola and Funghi pizzas, and before we could even look at the rest of the menu, our pizzas arrived—complete with two pairs of scissors. These pizzas are slightly smaller than average, closer to 10 inches. One notable feature was the cornicione, the charred crust. Some people dislike it, while others, like me, appreciate it—though it can be bitter if not done well. Grana uses sourdough, which smelled fantastic, and the toppings were bolder than typical pizzas. The flavor profile of the cheese and mushrooms on the Funghi pizza was quite pronounced, perhaps too strong for my taste. On the other hand, the Diavola, made with salami instead of pepperoni, was a bit too acidic and greasy for my liking.
Overall, both pizzas were delicious, though they felt slightly overpowering. Grana might not be the best pizza place in the neighborhood, but it stands out for its atmosphere and service. It’s a charming and quiet spot compared to the surrounding hustle, and we didn’t even get to try the tempting desserts. I might find myself back there sooner rather than later!
Ranked: ****
Issue 93. Volume 14. Chapter 5.
Visited: Oct 25th 2024. Friday at 17:30.
Address: 2811 E Burnside St, Portland
Website: granapdx.com