There is now an infamous burger in Portland, and supposed to be the best, but available only on the last Friday of each month. This pop-up operation takes place outside a charming butcher shop and has quickly gained a cult following. They sell a limited number of burgers each time, with this month’s total set at 500. I’ve heard stories of people leaving empty-handed after long waits, which I can only imagine must be agonizing. With nice weather, we decided to arrive a bit early, aiming for the 4 PM opening. As Eminem sang, “You only get one shot, do not miss your chance to blow.”
Unsurprisingly, there was a line at 4 PM, but what surprised us was that the grill was already hot, and burgers were being served. I wouldn’t recommend arriving much earlier than 4 PM, as I think you might end up waiting for a longer time. The line moved quickly, and we were among the first 30 people. After about 20 minutes, we reached the counter, where a simple menu offered burgers, cookies, and potato salad. Toppings for the burger included raw onions, pickles, and mayo on potato buns, and no substitutions were allowed. Zeph Shepard, the owner of Proletariat Butchery, was eagerly serving samples of amazing sausages and toast while we waited.
As we sheltered inside, we watched the single grill churning out six patties at a time, the smell utterly mesmerizing. A huge poster advertised the monthly sausage club, inviting patrons to pick up their sausage serving on burger day as a thank you to them. Though ironically, everyone seemed to be there only for the burger.
Within 15 minutes, we received our burger, and it looked gorgeous—something René Magritte might have claimed wasn’t a burger at all. Unlike most burgers in Portland, this is not a smashed burger. I appreciate that, as some smashed burgers can be overly hard and crispy. The combination of mayo, pickles, and raw onion might seem odd, but it made for a flavorful burger, albeit extremely salty. I tried to taste the beef—after all, this is a butcher shop—but the dominant taste was the soft texture of the patty and the overwhelming saltiness. It was juicy, and the the saltiness was so overpowering that I couldn’t taste the grease. Silver lining! Don’t get me wrong; it’s still a great burger, with a flavor profile that stands out from others. The choice of potato bun was excellent, though both Eric and I would have preferred toasted buns. At least the bun absorbed the mayo and held in the juices. I generally prefered sauteed onions, but these raw onions are not in the way.
I’m glad we had a good time, which I believe is the essence of this pop-up experience. We didn’t wait too long was the delicious burger, and we saw many happy faces enjoying their meals. Unlike the current pizza craze in Portland, I don’t feel there’s a standout burger contender, especially with the closure of Burger Stevens. That said, this burger is a bit overwhelming (with salt), so I’d rate it as a great burger rather than a perfect one. The ingredients are fresh, and I encourage you to taste it for yourself. Personally, I might return for the sausages— but why weren’t they on the menu?
Ranked: ****
Issue 93. Volume 14. Chapter 5.
Visited: Oct 25th 2024. Friday at 16:30.
Address: 5820 SE Foster Rd, Portland
Website: https://proletariatbutchery.com/pages/butchers-burger